01-foundations
Foundations
  Cream-Gel Mineral Foundation  
         
  Phase A

Weight %

 For 120 g / 4.3 oz  
  Titanium Dioxide (whitening agent) 2 % 2.4 g / 0.1 oz / 3/4 tsp  
  Iron Oxide Yellow (color) 0.8 % 1 g / 0.04 oz / approx 1/2 tsp  
  Iron Oxide Red (color) 0.3 % 0.4 g / 0.01 oz / approx 1/8 tsp  
  Iron Oxide Black (color) 0.05 % 0.06 g /  just a hue less than 1/16 tsp  
  Mica Spheres (powder, texturizer) 7 % 8.4 g / 0.3 oz / 2 Tbsp  
  Phase B      
  Distilled Water (diluent) 64.5 % 77.4 g / 2.8 oz / 1/4 cup 1 Tbsp  
  PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (emulsifier) 4 % 4.8 g / 0.2 oz / 1 tsp  
  Glycerin (humectant) 4 % 4.8 g / 0.2 oz / 1 tsp  
  EDTA (stabilizer) 0.1 % 0.12 g / 1/16 tsp  
  Phase C      
  Macadamia Nut Oil (emollient) 4 % 4.8 g / 0.2 oz / 1 tsp  
  Triglyceride (emollient) 4 % 4.8 g / 0.2 oz / 1 tsp  
  Isoeicosane (emollient) 4 % 4.8 g / 0.2 oz / 1 tsp  
  GelMaker EMU (thickener, emulsifier) 3 % 3.6 g / 0.13 oz / little over 1/2 tsp  
  Vitamin E Acetate (antioxidant) 1 % 1.2 g / 0.04 oz / 26 drops  
  Phase D      
  Paraben-DU (preservative) 1 % 1.2 g / 26 drops  
  Fragrance 0.3 % 0.4 g / 8 drops  
         
  Method
Mix the iron oxides and titanium dioxide with mortar and pestle (the small amount of iron oxide black is needed to adjust the color and take out some of the red color), test on white paper for color streaking, the color should be uniform. Then add the mica spheres and blend again well.
Add phase B into a disinfected glass beaker and stir, add phase A to it and stir very well to disperse the pigments. Add phase C into another glass beaker and stir the ingredients until mixed. Add phase C to phase A/B and blend very well to form the cream-gel (little hand mixer works great. When to thick use a spatula. Then add phase D and stir again well. Fill into an airless dispenser, tuba bottle or wide cosmetic jar.

Properties
Light Cream-Gel Foundation that is soft and creamy. Should measuring the small amounts of iron oxide pigments be to difficult replace them by using our pigment blends and add between 2-4% to phase A. Adjust color by adding more titanium dioxide to make it lighter or more pigment blend to make it darker.		  
           

 

  Compact Cream Foundation  
         
  Phase A

Weight %

 For 100 g / 3.5 oz  
  Triglyceride 16.4 % 16.4 g / 0.6 oz  
  Polyisobutene 15 % 15 g / 0.5 oz  
  Meadowfoam Seed Oil 10 % 10 g / 0.4 oz  
  Sheabutter 2 % 2 g / 0.1 oz  
  Polyglyceryl Oleate 2 % 2 g / 0.1 oz  
  Candelilla Wax 2.5 % 2.5 g / 0.1 oz  
  Carnauba Wax 1.5 % 1.5 g / 0.05 oz (3/4 tsp)  
  BHT 0.1 % 0.1 g / 0.004 oz (1/16 tsp)  
  Phase B      
  Mica Spheres 15 % 15 g / 0.5 oz  
  Talc Powder 12 % 12 g / 0.4 oz  
  Kaolin 7 % 7 g / 0.25 oz  
  Phase C      
  Triglyceride 4 % 4 g / 0.14 oz  
  Titanium Dioxide 4 % 4 g / 0.14 oz  
  Somerset Pigment Blend 3 % 3 g / 0.1 oz (1 1/2 tsp)  
         
  Method
Add phase A into a disinfected glass beaker and heat to 158F/70C to melt the ingredients. Add phase B to phase A and stir. Add phase C to a mortar and mill well with pestle, remove all paste from mortar (using a rubber spoon works best) and add to phase A/B, stir well until homogenous. Remove from the heat and pour into a compact case, small pots or into a stick container, let it cool.

Properties
Solid foundation with an extremely velvet feel, spreads well on skin, gives soft coverage and looks very natural.		  
           

 

  Foundation Cream for Normal to Dry Skin  
         
  Phase A

Weight %

 For 120 g / 4.3 oz  
  Jojoba Oil 9 % 10.8 g / 0.39 oz  
  Triglyceride 9 % 10.8 g / 0.39 oz  
  Somerset Pigment Blend 3 % 3.6 g / 0.13 oz  
  Titanium Dioxide 3 % 3.6 g / 0.13 oz  
  Bismuth Oxychloride 3 % 3.6 g / 0.13 oz  
  Phase B      
  Sheabutter 2.5 % 3 g / 0.11 oz  
  Sorbitan Stearate 1.7 % 2.1 g / 0.08 oz  
  Polysorbate 60 2.5 % 3 g / 0.11 oz  
  Cetyl Alcohol 1.8 % 2.2 g / 0.1 oz  
  Phase C      
  Hot Distilled Water 64.5 % 77.4 g / 2.76 oz  
  Sorbitol 2 % 2.4 g / 0.1 oz  
  Phase D      
  Paraben-DU 1 % 1.2 g / 1/4 tsp  
  Fragrance 0.3 % 0.4 g / 1/16 tsp  
         
  Method
Add phase A into a mortar and disperse the ingredients with a pistil until it is a homogenous mixture. Add phase B into a disinfected, heat-resistant glass beaker and warm it to (150oF/66oC) to melt the ingredients. Combine phase A and B and stir. While still hot, add phase C to phase A/B and stir the mixture continuously until it is a homogenous cream. After the temperature has dropped to about 90oF/32oC add phase D and stir again. At the end you still can change the shade by adding more titanium dioxide to make it lighter or adding more pigment blend to make it darker. Before adding one of these ingredients disperse them in 1/2 tsp. of triglyceride. Fill the foundation cream into airless dispenser or tuba bottle.

Properties
Basic foundation cream with shea butter for softening effect.		  
           

 

  Fluid Mineral Makeup Medium Coverage  
         
  Phase A

Weight %

 For 120 g / 4.3 oz  
  Hot Distilled Water 62.5 % 75 g / 2.7 oz  
  Sorbitol 2 % 2.4 g / 0.08 oz  
  Xanthan Gum 0.5 % 0.6 g / 1/4 tsp  
  Phase B      
  SL-Polyglyceryl Laurate 2.5 % 3g / 0.1 oz  
  Triglyceride 10 % 12 g / 0.43 oz  
  Vitamin E 0.5 % 0.6 g / 12 drops  
  Dimethicone 7 % 8.4 g / 0.3 oz  
  Cetyl Alcohol 2 % 2.4 g / 0.08 oz  
  Phase C      
  Somerset Pigment Blend 3 % 3.6 g / 0.23 oz  
  Titanium Dioxide 6 % 7.2 g / 0.26 oz  
  Talc Powder 2 % 2.4 g / 0.08 oz  
  Dimethicone 1 % 1.2 g / 1/4 tsp  
  Phase C      
  Paraben-DU 1 % 1.2 g / 1/4 tsp  
  Fragrance 0.3 % 0.4 g / 1/16 tsp  
         
  Method
Add phase A into a glass beaker and mix until uniform. Mix phase B in another glass beaker and heat to (150oF/66oC) to melt the ingredients.  Mix phase C in a mortar and blend thoroughly, add then phase C to phase B and disperse. Add phase B/C to phase A and stir well until it is a homogenous cream. After the temperature has dropped to 90oF/32oC add phase D and stir again. At the end you still can change the shade by adding more titanium dioxide to make it lighter or adding more pigment blend to make it darker. Before adding one of these ingredients disperse them in 1/2 tsp. of triglyceride. Fill the fluid makeup into our tuba bottles or into an airless dispenser.

Properties
Makeup that is light and creamy can be applied evenly on the whole face or just where it's needed, for all skin types. It blends well and gives good coverage. It has a non-oily feeling.		  
           

 

  Pressed Powder Foundation with Light Coverage  
         
  Phase A

Weight %

 For 120 g / 4.3 oz  
  Somerset Pigment Blend 3 % 3.6 g / 0.13 oz  
  Titanium Dioxide 3 % 3.6 g / 0.13 oz  
  Talc Powder 26 % 31.2 g / 1.1 oz  
  Bismuth Oxychloride 15 % 18 g / 0.6 oz  
  Magnesium Stearate 12 % 14.4 g / 0.5 oz  
  Titanium Dioxide (micronized) 6 % 7.2 g / 0.26 oz  
  Kaolin 5.4 % 6.5 g / 0.2 oz  
  BHT 0.1 % 0.12 g / 1/16 tsp  
  Zinc Oxide 2 % 2.4 g / 0.1 oz  
  Phase B      
  Dimethicone 3 % 3.6 g / 0.13 oz  
  Triglyceride 2.5 % 3 g / 0.1 oz  
  Grapeseed Oil 2 % 2.4 g / 0.1 oz  
  Phase C      
  Mica Spheres 20 % 24 g / 0.9 oz  
         
  Method
Add phase A into a mortar and mill thoroughly with pestle. Add phase B to phase A and mill again. Add phase C and blend only for a short time then fill a compact powder container with the powder. Use a spoon and/or a spatula and start pressing the powder into the compact container until it looks solid.

Properties
Face powder with Mica Spheres for a smooth light feel.		  
           

 

  Loose Mineral Makeup Powder  
         
  Phase A

Weight %

 For 100 g / 3.5 oz  
  Jojoba Oil 3 % 3 g / 0.1 oz  
  Fragrance 0.2 % 0.2 g / 0.007 oz (4 drops)  
  Phase B      
  Titanium Dioxide (Micronized) 22 % 22 g / 0.8 oz  
  Bismuth Oxychloride 15.8 % 15.8 g / 0.6 oz  
  Mica Spheres 15 % 15 g / 0.5 oz  
  Zinc Oxide 22 % 22 g / 0.8 oz  
  Somerset Pigment Blend 18 % 18 g / 0.64 oz  
  Phase C      
  Pearl White Mica 4 % 4 g / 0.14 oz  
         
  Method
Pour the two oils of phase A into a mortar. Combine the ingredients of phase B in a separate jar and stir thoroughly. Add then slowly phase B to phase A while continuously stirring with a pistil. Keep on stirring until the mixture becomes homogenous. If it sticks to the mortar wall, scratch it off and keep on stirring. Last add the ingredients of phase C to the phase A/B and stir using a spoon. Fill the mineral makeup into powder jars with sifter.

Properties
Loose mineral makeup with a blend of iron oxide pigments. Adheres very well to the skin and gives a flawless natural look and velvet skin feel due to Mica Spheres.