Creamy Redwood Lipstick

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Phase A

Weight %

For 50 g / 1.8 oz

 

 

Castor Oil (emollient)

30 %

15 g / 1 Tbsp

 

 

Polyisobutene 800 (emollient)

31.8 %

15.9 g / 1 Tbsp ½ tsp

 

 

D&C Red No. 7 Liquid (colorant)

2 %

1 g / 24 drops

 

 

Red Mica (colorant)

9 %

4.5 g / 2 ¼ tsp

 

 

Pearl-White Mica (colorant)

4 %

2 g / 1 tsp

 

 

Phase B

 

 

 

 

Candelilla Wax (thickener)

10 %

5 g / 2 tsp

 

 

Carnauba Wax (thickener)

6 %

3 g / 1 ½ tsp

 

 

Vitamin E Acetate (antioxidant)

1 %

0.5 g / 12 drops

 

 

Avocado Butter (thickener/emollient)

5 %

2.5 g / ½ tsp

 

 

Phase C

 

 

 

 

Vitamin E Tocopherol (antioxidant)

0.2 %

0.1 g / 2 drops

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Method
Add phase A into a heat resistant glass beaker and stir well. Add phase B to phase A and heat to 185oF/85oC until the waxes are melted, stir, them remove rom the heat. Add phase C to phase A/B and stir.
Grease the lipstick mold with little plant oil and close the mold. While still hot and liquid pour the mixture carefully but in one drive into the lipstick mold, (press the mold together to avoid leaking or use a rubber band around the mold). Wait 2 minutes until the lipstick has hardened some, place it into the refrigerator for 30 minutes. If you like to change the color melt the lipstick again and change the shade by adding a bit more pigments (note: if you add too much mica pigments the lipstick will get dry and brittle).
How to remove the lipsticks: separate the mold and push the lipstick carefully with low pressure out of the mold, if the lipstick get’s a dent by doing so then you may need to add a higher amount of waxes, in total by ¼ to 1/2tsp. Use a sharp knife with an even blade to cut the top off the lipstick to give it its typical shape or rub the tip against a hard paper surface as you would color. When out of the mold place the lipsticks into lipstick containers. To give it a professional look "flame" the lipstick shortly with a cigarette lighter, but be careful not to melt it. The recipe (50g/1.8oz) gives about 5-7 lipsticks.

Properties
Basic color lipstick with oils, avocado butter and waxes plus vitamin E acetate and vitamin E tocopherol as antioxidants.