Crafting the perfect lipstick is a work of art.

 

It must apply to the lips easily and evenly without bleeding into the fine lines around the mouth. It should feel moist, not dry, and provide complete coverage without looking unnatural.

 

To create lipstick, you should have a mixture of waxesoils, and pigments. Waxes are the backbone of lipsticks as they make sure the lipstick becomes hard and inflexible. Typically, carnauba waxcandelilla waxbeeswax, and microcrystalline wax among other waxes are utilized in lipstick formulas.

 

Each wax provides a unique feature and depending on how you want the final product to turn, determines which one you should use.

 

For example, Carnauba wax is primarily used to provide hardness and thermal stability as it has a high melting point of 50-85C (176-185°F). Whereas, Candelilla wax has a lower melting point (about 69-79°C or 156-163°F) and is not as hard, or rigid. Additionally, it provides more shine and has a less grainy feel.

 

 While this can be a complicated process, we’ve made it a little easier with our easy-to-follow formulas.

One of our newest formulas, Natural Beetroot Lipstick (No. 1900), is made with Beetroot Extract Pigment and has a velvety feel when applied.

 

Take a look at the full formula and how to make it here:

Phase A

Ingredient

             INCI

Function

Percent

Wgt (g)

Wgt (oz)

Meadowfoam Seed Oil

Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) seed oil

Emollient

15.00

7.50

0.26

Castor Oil

Ricinus communis

(Castor) oil

Emollient

28.50

14.25

0.50

Candelilla Wax

Candelilla wax

Thickener

13.00

6.50

0.23

Carnauba Wax

Carnauba wax

Thickener

3.00

1.50

0.05

 

 

Vegan Wax

Behenyl behenate, polyhydroxystearic acid, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, sodium stearoyl lactylate

 

 

Thickener

 

 

2.00

 

 

1.00

 

 

0.04

Octyldodecanol

Octyldodecanol

Emollient

5.00

2.50

0.09

Coconut Oil Cert. Organic

Cocos nucifera

(Coconut) oil

Emollient

2.00

1.00

0.04

Beetroot Extract Pigment

Beta Vulgaris

(beet) root extract

Colorant

10.00

5.00

0.18

D&C Red 7

Red 7

Colorant

2.00

1.00

0.04

Silica

Silica

Texturizer

1.00

0.50

0.02

 

 

BioJelly

Coco-caprylate/caprate, triheptanoin, C9-12 alkane, dilinoleic acid/propanediol/PDI crosspolymer

 

 

Emollient

 

 

15.00

 

 

 

7.50

 

 

0.26

Vitamin E Tocopherol

Dl-alpha tocophero

Anti-Oxidant

0.50

0.25

0.01

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Polyhydroxystearic acid

Thickener

3.00

1.50

0.05


Combine Ingredients:

Add all ingredients into a heat-resistant glass beaker and stir well. Heat to 85C/185°F until all is melted and keep blending to avoid burning or settling. Continue until smooth. Pour into lipstick mold at 75-80°C.

This formula is one of many options that you can make for lipstick! You could create a lipstick in virtually any color that you like – it might just mean trial and error in regard to creating the perfect shade.

Check out our “Recipes for Lip Care Products” book to find even more lip-based cosmetic formulas!

For formulating questions, please reach out to our tech department.

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